West Coast Wander: Part 5
UK’s largest single drop waterfall and could this be the best MBA bothy of them all?
My easy Day 7 helped set me up for what’s been one of the best days of the trip.
Day 8: Morvich to Maol Buidhe Bothy
14.4km - 1122m ascent - 9h10m (including rests)
This was a superb section and one of my favourite days of the trip so far. For starters, there’s a good path most of the day - a little boggy bog towards the end but otherwise great tracks throughout, particularly up to the Falls of Glomach. Oh! About those Falls!
Ok, I have a bone to pick with the Cicerone guide (an extremely useful reference), and all the YouTubers out there who make out like the Falls of Glomach are some kind of harrowing experience. For example, the Cicerone guide says “the path to descend them is genuinely tricky” and “goes over several rock steps”. It goes on to suggest alternative routes to avoid the falls, despite them being “truly one of the most impressive sights of the trail”.
It had me Googling about the Falls, and finding yet more Walkhighlands forums discussing alternative routes, and YouTube videos about the steep gorge in which the waterfall cascades over 100m down into the ravine (allegedly the largest single continuous drop waterfall in the UK). Be afraid, be very afraid. (And eat your lunch before you attempt it in case it’s your last meal - yes I did that.)
(Greek salad sandwich with some of that caraway bread I scored in the honesty box from the day prior.)
So here’s the reality. When you get to the top of the falls there are two paths: one goes down to a viewing “platform” (basically a comfortably wide ledge), the other contours around the gorge and eventually descends into it well beyond the falls.
The viewing platform is well worth the short diversion - dump your pack and head down the path to see the full expanse of the waterfall. It’s mind blowing! And perfectly safe. Unless you go stand right on the edge of the platform, which would be stupid. Here’s a video from the viewing area:
As for the other path… yes, it does contour around the steep sided gorge. But we’re not talking vertical drops. Most of the path is, well, a pretty standard path, with grass and bracken sloping off steeply to the side. Sure it’s steep but it’s not crazy - I wouldn’t call it exposed. And as for those rock steps, they’re pretty typical of any kind of rocky step you might find on a UK path. It required no use of hands or real scrambling except for maybe a gentle support while stepping down the very doable rock steps (and I’m saying this as a 5ft tall, short legged person).
I am certain I’ve experienced similar conditions on other parts of the trail, and in fact some of the boggier sections are far worse as you’re more likely to slip and fall. So I just don’t get what the fuss is about, and I’m sad all these people are missing out on the Falls of Glomach due to fear mongering. The falls were out of this world! And worth the walk even if you aren’t doing the CWT… the out and back route to the falls from Morvich go through beautiful wild scenery and have good paths. I love Falls of Gromach!
Moving on…
My goal for the day was to get to Maol Bhuide bothy, another 12km away. Beyond the gorge the path leads to a very easy farm track through sheep fields, then a 400m+ climb out of the glen. I didn’t mention that there was a 500m+ ascent earlier in the day to climb out of Morvich and descend down to the falls. That one wasn’t bad as it was early in the days and the promise of the falls was exciting.
By this stage, I just wanted the climb over with! This is where my headphones come in - I’ve got some music and podcasts downloaded for those moments when I’m kinda ready to be done but I know I’ve got a few hours left to go. So I listened to Ologies Fearology episode and reminded myself of a few helpful life skills, then moved on to 80s music to see me to the
MOST LUXURIOUS MBA BOTHY I’VE EVER SEEN!!!!
It looked good from a distance, even better up close, like a proper cottage, and inside… what?! Wood panelling! Chairs that aren’t broken! A companion set to go with the wood burner! Pictures on the walls! A dedicated cooking room! So many hooks for hanging things! A bazillion lanterns for tea lights! And set in the most beautiful location.
This must be one of the most exquisite MBA bothies I’ve ever stayed in.
Having assumed the bothy would be rammed and I’d be camping, I was surprised to find it empty, and there was no way I was going to camp when I had the option to stay here.
The bothy walls are adorned with pictures and a couple interesting info boards about the history of the place. The bothy was taken over by the Mountain Bothies Association in 1969 in agreement with the Killilan and Inverinate Estate (who continue to support the MBA in its upkeep). The bothy had lain dormant for 50 years - this was a doer upper to be sure! They’ve done substantial renovations since then, most recently in 2017-2018 when they transformed the downstairs into this beautiful cabin-style accommodation you see now with sleeping platforms and working wood burners. In addition to the info boards, I also enjoyed the other reading material within
Cape Wrath Trail for Jamie by Pete Kenny - A really touching story about a bereaved father whose son had committed suicide and was walking the trail to raise awareness and funds for Papyrus, the UK’s youngest suicide prevention charity
Scotland’s Birds of Prey - I did not know that Ospreys are unique among Scottish raptors in that they feed solely on fish
Walkhighlands Guide to The Munros - in reading about Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe (the two hills I climbed in Knoydart the other day, I learned about The Seven Men of Knoydart - in short, Knoydart was cleared in the 19th century (most emigrated to Canada and were replaced by sheep!), and in the 1930s was owned by Lord Brocket, a Nazi sympathizer, who discouraged settlement on the peninsula. In 1948 Sven Men launched a land raids on the estate. They lost the legal battle and the land, but are commemorated by a memorial in the village. Thankfully the estate was bought by Knoydart Foundation in 1999 which has revived the area substantially, and enabled my visit - thank you Knoydart Foundation!
Dinner was from the dehydrated food larder: a kimchi and tofu rice, one of my favourites (recipe on the blog). I had some feta leftover from dinner last night which seems to be the garnish that goes with almost every meal.
Cozied up in on one of the sleeping platforms as the sun finally set (I was up too late, but couldn’t help it, I was so engrossed in my surroundings), I wondered if any late comers would arrive in the night. No one did, so I had a very good sleep, and got up early to make the most of my time here.
